First pitch of 45m used up all the quickdraws.
Second pitch was excellent. A tricky, steep crack then leads to the classic traverse with very polished feetholds. Fourth pitch is really meaty fair play to Nick lots of hand jams.
Great cold, damp winter's day. It's been on my wish list for a long time. Great to finally do it with a great mate. What a memorable day. Long but fab day. I saw the new peg in the belay after the shield pitch carried on till the threads in the niche.
Did it in 3 pitches at night with harmonica and jetboil for tea and biscuits up the top plus 3 bar blues en route. Eddy lead P1 and P3.
The route was in pristine condition, unusual for this time of year. No damp and no mud.
What an adventure this one was! Ridiculous amounts of exposure and stunning positions. P1 currently pretty clean. Shield traverse looks intimidating but it's only really two or three 5a moves on your arms before you can get a great thigh rest.
Red DMM nut left at the crux of P2 - crag swag for anyone able to get it out. Would recommend taking a big hex to bash the end of your nut key with as it's quite deep into the crack. Quite cool to tick this after having looked at it in years previous thinking I'd never be able to do it! Strangely it seemed harder than at night.
We climbed in the dry, and finished just before the rain let rip. P2 had the hard pull on to the blanker wall. Psyched myself out so gave Dan the remaining leads. Traverse was strenuous, especially towards the end.
Final pitch hard, didn't have much energy left. Piled on gear toward the top Need to go back and climb it clean. Great morning out with some fun moves. First half muddy but quickly improved to good rock. Loose TV-sized block on the 3rd belay. Another great climb with a hungover and tired Joe. Lead p3 and p4.
A good bit of faff switching back to lead after a hanging belay following the traverse but Joe was in no state to lead another 5b pitch. Got chearleaded through the roof on p4 by a young boy on the ground.
Terrific exposure in some places. Night time ascent of Corrie and judging by the amount of mud and vegetation the first of the season. We did it in Dating in the dark full episodes ukc pitches, and I lead P1 and P3.
I managed to slip twice on the shield traverse! We left the ground at 6: Lovely dry balmy evening. Started a bit late really, Tommy's tourettes came out when it started to get dark, but he did a good job leading the last pitch in the dark and wet.
Knocked my headtorch off twice seconding, second time it fell to the ground and we found it! A good day out. Got a DMM size 9 offset nut wedged on second pitch: Have left as an offering to the cheddar gods. Great route hard for e1 damp and muddy in place doesnt help. First pitch very long. Traverse pitch right out there just keep going. Top 5b pitch is brilliant. Keep looking for those footholds they are there!!
Top pitch not straigtforward when youre knackered!! A beefy expidition, the climbing itself is no pushover, then there is the length of it, and having to do it in winter.
It all went ok. A great days climbing. A good mini adventure! Was very cold today and some patchy wettness only added to the spiceness. Overall very happy to have ticked this route, a great way to start A much anticipated Boxing Day excursion.
Nice weather, only cold when seconding, leading was fine. P Welford led 2,3,5. Final pitch was horrid and chossy hence massive whipper. In hindsight we probably went the wrong way up the crack rather than diagonally right. A Boxing Day Bruiser. Rained on 4th pitch but Jon soldiered through.
It started to rain quite heavily whilst i was on P4 which was quite interesting, especially as it was about to get dark!
Fantastic route and as good as i was lead to believe, if not better!
It just goes on and on and on. Nowhere desperate always steep and exposed. Very pleased to have reached the top. Lead P2 5b, P3 5a shieldDating in the dark full episodes ukc 5b and P5 4b in the dark Everything its reputation precedes, "that was an episode" as Callan said topping out, absolutely mega!
Great for Callan to get his hardest trad lead to date too on the 50m 4c to start! Actually didn't the shield was that hard maybe still actually 5a with feet nearly all the way across, but then I am good at fitting into small spaces and the weird leg-over move is fun: NOTE Dating in the dark full episodes ukc guide shows the route breaking to the right from the final belay before the final pitch.
I did this, going round one more arete than seems initially sensible. The top is then on clean, solid rock as I remember, with a nice view over a horrible skanky gully to the left. So pleased to have got the 5b moves and lead the traverse. I led pitches 2, 3, 4 and 5 with 4 and 5 run together as a single pitch. Gorgeous sunny, warm, still day and loads of good climbing on P Shiny stainless peg on the belay at the end of P4 to back up the wobbly block.
A bit vegetated on P1 and P5 and care needed with occasional bits of rock but neither was a significant issue. I fancy doing this again soon! Yes, no man with clip board was going to stop me this year. My partner got caught out by the clipboard with no membership two years in a row. Not this year, was worth waiting for. Lead pitches 2,3 and 4.
I certainly got the best pitches, great rock, gear and climbing. Appears to be a new peg in good condition on the 3rd belay. Only as far as the niche belay. Had a cup of tea then ran away as Will was freezing. Made for a cracking 45m VS in it's own right though.
An amazing route with lots of good gear. Unfortunately I took an unexpected fall on the first pitch. Cold climb with moments of numb fingers and toes but bearable! First 5 pitch multi route. Took us 5 hours. Our second E1 multipitch.